Last year, Rolex surprised us with a sudden drop in novelty. While the cynicism surrounding the Crown and its supply chain (or lack thereof) was present, the new design itself is pretty neat. While the Oyster Perpetual model gives us color and class, the new Submariner gives us the kind of evolution that the brand is known for. Subtle tweaks and minor updates are the order of the day. Now, as the calendar turns over for the first year that these Rolex watches are in the catalog, I get my first look at the new Rolex Submariner Date 126613LN.

Recently, I had the opportunity to see this watch in its metal case. Since then, I’ve been puzzling over it. The cards on the table: I was never a huge fan of the modern Submariner. With the addition of the crown protector, almost everything left me feeling a little cold. Do I appreciate the design of it? Absolutely. Do I acknowledge that it might be the icon of icons? Yeah, I mean, my head is kind of banging, but I’m not totally crazy. I know a classic when I see one. I just don’t feel the need to own every classic I see ……

My exposure to the Rolex Submariner in real life was reinforced after I started working as a watchmaker. That was more than a decade ago, but not long after the release of the largest case. Those more powerful models were already around me in my early workplace. To be clear: I don’t regret the disappearance of the Maxi case. In my opinion, this was the worst, blockiest, most mainstream-catering era for the brand. I may be in the minority in this regard, but that’s okay. I have smaller than average wrists and prefer smaller diameter sport exact replica watches. I also hate fat watch lugs. Therefore, the Maxi era is not for me.

The new lugs on the Rolex Submariner from 2020 are a brilliant update. Because of them, the silhouette takes on a more refined look. This is exactly what this watch needs. And, although I would have liked to see the diameter reduced rather than increased by 1 mm, the 41 mm diameter is acceptable simply because of the new, more defined profile.

There are few better mainstream examples in recent memory that clearly convey the nuances of watch design. For non-watchmakers, a case is a case. Many people think they just exist. They attach the same importance to their design as they do to broomsticks (yes, I know that somewhere on the Internet, some broomstick enthusiast’s blog is screaming at his or her cornflakes – sorry). However, we don’t. It goes without saying that every element of a case is interconnected, and a change in any element will have an impact elsewhere. However, few brands like Rolex see this so clearly.

The new Rolex Submariner Date 126613LN represents the best entrant to date in the crowned Submariner collection. Is it my favorite? Of course not. To find the apple of my eye, one would have to go back to the late 50’s and look for the “Big Crown” 6538. however, in this modern lineup, it’s right up there.

Two-tone swiss replica watches rarely tickle my fancy when we’re talking about other brands, but there’s something very alluring and gorgeous about Rolesor. Maybe it’s the subtle difference between the way 316L and 904L steel looks next to yellow gold? Maybe it’s the quality of Rolex’s gold itself? Maybe it’s the finishing, the surface treatment, or just pure design. Whatever it is, it seems to me that of all the other brands, the Crown is at its best in this blend and manages to turn me over and over again to other brands of watches that I rarely consider.

All in all, I think the new Rolex Submariner is a big step in the right direction. What I really want to know, though, is if we’ll see this new case middle pop up elsewhere in the Professional line? Will we see a 41mm GMT-Master II in the near future? As I said before, I’m against expanding the diameter, but I do wonder what my beloved “beer” would look like with skinny lugs (put it on a Rolesor jubilee and we might be talking about perfection).